Nomikoji Yamagishi (呑小路 やま岸)

Tucked near Kyoto City Hall, Nomikoji Yamagishi channels the refined technique of its acclaimed sister kitchen into a looser, izakaya-paced evening of seasonal small plates, sashimi, and cooked dishes. Expect a chef’s-choice rhythm of courses rather than a strict menu, in a room built for lingering over sake.

It is the original Kyoto location of the Yamagishi group’s izakaya concept — itself a more casual offshoot of the Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant Tominokoji Yamagishi — and later expanded with a Ginza, Tokyo branch.