Shinme (神馬)

A Kyoto institution since 1934, Shinme has poured hot sake and served Kyoto vegetables and daily-fresh fish to three generations of regulars from its atmospheric, brewery-style building near Senbon-dori. Its house specialty — a warmed blend of six different sakes served under the restaurant’s own name — has become as much a draw as the seasonal cooking itself.

Cash-only and unpretentious, it’s the kind of Showa-era neighborhood tavern locals fiercely guard as their own.