Michishirube (道しるべ)

Tucked down a notoriously atmospheric back alley in Kabukicho, Michishirube is a cult-favorite yakitori den that has drawn devoted regulars since it opened in 2009. Reservations are informal — a text message to the shop’s phone is the surest way in — and once seated, guests are treated to expertly charcoal-grilled skewers followed by a bowl of house ramen to finish the night. Cash only and famously hard to book on short notice, it is considered one of Shinjuku’s great hidden-gem yakitori spots.